The Empire of Tea: How tea changed China and the west - Alan Macfarlane
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Introduction and Core Thesis
Historian Alan Macfarlane explores the profound, dualistic impact of tea (Camellia sinensis) on world history, with a particular focus on China and the West. Drawing from his book Green Gold: The Empire of Tea (co-authored with his mother, Iris Macfarlane), Macfarlane argues that tea is not merely a comforting beverage but a powerful historical agent. It served as a vital catalyst for the rise, economic prosperity, and demographic stability of great empiresânamely, Tang and Song China, medieval Japan, and industrial Britain. Conversely, the global craving for tea also brought about devastating geopolitical consequences for China, culminating in the Opium Wars and the collapse of its imperial economy.
The Biological and Evolutionary Power of Tea
At the heart of tea's historical influence is its unique evolutionary biology. Originating in the highly competitive, warm, and wet jungles of the Eastern Himalayas (the Burma, Assam, and Yunnan triangle), the tea bush developed sophisticated chemical defenses against viruses, bacteria, and pests.
Caffeine: Acts as a central nervous system stimulant, providing physical energy and mental focus. It allowed agricultural and industrial laborers to endure grueling work on minimal diets.
Phenolics (Tea Tannins): Serve as highly potent natural antiseptics. Macfarlane notes that these compounds are chemically related to the carbolic disinfectants used by Joseph Lister to revolutionize hospital sanitation.
Antioxidants and Nutrients: Tea is rich in vitamins (especially Vitamin C in green tea, and enzymes that facilitate its absorption in black tea), flavonoids, and other compounds that modern science has shown to fight cancers, cardiovascular disease, stroke, and bacterial infections.
Demographic and Economic Catalyst: The Sanitizing Agent
One of Macfarlane's most compelling arguments centers on how tea resolved a fundamental obstacle to human civilization: the sanitary hazards of urbanization.
The Urban Water Crisis: As populations clustered in the agricultural hubs of Song China, the cities of medieval Japan, and the industrial centers of 18th-century Britain, water supplies became heavily contaminated with human waste. This led to lethal waterborne epidemics of dysentery, cholera, and typhoid, which typically devastated infant and adult populations alike.
The Double Protection of Tea:
Boiling: The preparation of tea required boiling water, which sterilized it of live pathogens.
Antiseptic Chemistry: More importantly, the active phenolics in tea actively sanitize the mouth and digestive tract. Laboratory experiments have shown that cold tea successfully destroys typhoid, cholera, and dysentery bacilli.
Enabling the Industrial and Rice Revolutions: By keeping populations healthy and highly energized, tea enabled the intensive wet-rice cultivation of the Yangtze Delta and sustained the grueling labor force of the British Industrial Revolution. Without tea, these massive demographic and economic expansions would have succumbed to systemic disease and exhaustion.
The Geopolitical Pivot: Nomads and the Northern Borders
Macfarlane introduces a provocative hypothesis regarding the influence of tea on China's northern nomadic neighbors, such as the Mongols and the Manchus.
The Scurvy Shield: On the arid, vegetable-scarce steps of Central Asia, nomadic diets consisted almost entirely of meat and dairy, leaving them highly vulnerable to scurvy. Imported Chinese tea provided a critical source of Vitamin C.
Military and Physical Stamina: The stamina, energy, and resistance to waterborne pathogens offered by tea may have significantly boosted the physical power of these nomadic societies.
Leverage and Invasion: The strategic value of tea was so high that Chinese dynasties used "brick tea" as a trade leverage to acquire horses. Macfarlane suggests that the rise of Genghis Khan, the establishment of the Yuan Dynasty, and the later Manchu conquest (Qing Dynasty) may have been fundamentally facilitated by the biological support of the tea leaf.
The Dark Side of the Empire: Opium and Economic Ruin
Despite its benefits, the global obsession with tea ultimately brought catastrophic damage to China through British mercantile exploitation.
The Silver Drain and the Opium Solution: By the mid-18th century, Britain was deeply addicted to Chinese tea. The British East India Company funded its empire through the tea trade but faced a massive trade deficit because China accepted only silver in exchange. When silver supplies dwindled due to geopolitical shifts, the British systematically introduced opium into China as a highly addictive counter-commodity to balance the trade.
The Opium Wars and Imperial Erosion: The resulting social ruin in China prompted the Qing state to ban the drug, triggering the First and Second Opium Wars (1839â1842 and 1856â1860). Britain's military victories forced humiliating treaties, massive silver reparations, and the opening of treaty ports, fatally undermining the authority of the Qing Dynasty.
The Collapse of the Chinese Tea Monopoly: To bypass China entirely, the British established industrialized tea plantations in Assam (India) and Ceylon (Sri Lanka). By employing machinery and cheap colonial labor, they undercut the Chinese market. In a single generation (from the 1870s to the late 1890s), China's massive tea export economy collapsed (e.g., exports from ports like Amoy and Hankou dropped to near zero). This sudden economic devastation set the stage for the domestic chaos of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, including the Taiping Rebellion, the Boxer Rebellion, and the warlord era.
Cultural, Aesthetic, and Social Transformations
The unique preparation of tea elevated it from a simple beverage to a highly structured social ritual across different continents.
Ceremonial and Religious Links: Tea was deeply intertwined with Buddhist meditation in East Asia and later with non-conformist, temperance-driven Christian movements (like Methodism) in Britain.
Aesthetic and Material Culture: The desire to serve tea beautifully drove monumental advancements in ceramics, leading to the creation of fine Chinese and Japanese porcelain, and inspiring the industrial pottery of Josiah Wedgwood in England. It also influenced domestic architecture (the Japanese tea house) and landscape painting.
Social and Gender Dynamics: In Britain, afternoon tea reshaped daily schedules, shifting heavy meals to later hours. Because tea was non-alcoholic, it created respectable domestic and public spaces where women could host, socialize, and assert social influence, thereby altering traditional gender dynamics.
Conclusion: The Co-Evolutionary Empire of Tea
Macfarlane concludes by inverting the traditional anthropocentric view of history. Rather than humans domesticating the tea plant, one can view Camellia sinensis as having successfully manipulated human biology to ensure its own global expansion. By producing caffeine, the plant attracted human cultivators who cleared forests to build a vast "Empire of Tea." Today, tea remains the most consumed prepared liquid on Earth, quietly shaping global health, economy, and culture.
Transcript
I am delighted that in a few months, the book which I wrote with my mother, Iris Macfarlane, called Green Gold: The Empire of Tea, will be published in a Chinese translation. I cannot think of any better place to launch this book, so to speak, than here in the distinguished Peking University, which is where this talk was originally given. I thank you for inviting me and for attending.
Nor is there a better place to launch a book on the history and influence of tea on world civilization than the capital of the greatest tea nation in history. Tea and China are almost synonymous. Indeed, for a Westerner to bring a book on tea to China seems rather audacious, as there are many already. But I hope to bring a different perspective to the study of your favorite drinkâa drink which has united and divided Britain and China, for good and bad, for nearly three00 years.
I donât know whether it has occurred to you that tea both made and almost destroyed China. It has been the secret source of much of its greatness, but in the end, through the craving it induced elsewhere and the strength it gave, it led to terrible disasters from which China is only now recovering. Let me explain.
Camellia sinensis, the Chinese tea plant, originated in the hot, wet jungles of the Eastern Himalayas, in the Burma, Assam, and Yunnan triangle. By the time of the unification of China in the third century BC, it was already known in the monastic gardens and aristocratic households of parts of China as a wonderful medicine and a drink that helped in Buddhist meditation. It became a national drink and was universally admired around the time of the rise of the Tang Dynasty.
Its spread coincided with the great move southwards of Chinese civilization in arguably China's most glorious period: the late Tang and Song Empires, from the 9th to the 13th centuries AD. One suggestion we make in our book is that the sudden, rapid growth of population numbers and economic wealth in this timeâlinked to the spread of intensive rice cultivation in the Yangtze Deltaâmay have been made possible by tea.
Tea helps in two ways. Firstly, it gives extra energy in farming. The caffeine in the tea relaxes, invigorates, and improves muscle use and brain concentration. Just as the Japanese experienced a great medieval expansion following the introduction of tea in the 13th century, tea made possible the grinding work of wet-rice production on minimal diets. Likewise, the British were also to discover during their great spurt in the Industrial Revolution from the late 18th century that tea helps overcome fatigue and makes complex, difficult work possible. If we subtract tea from the Tang and Song periods, I suspect their achievements would have been seriously diminished.
Secondly, as the population of China increased rapidlyâas it was also to do later in Japan and Englandâit soon faced one of the greatest obstacles to human progress: sanitation. The huge cities and crowded countryside of the Song period, of late medieval Japan, and of the industrial cities of England produced a massive amount of human waste. This polluted the water supplies, and the danger of dysentery, cholera, and typhoid increased exponentially. Infants were likely to die soon after birth, and adults were constantly sick.
What could people do to avoid this almost certain disaster? In China, Japan, or England, there was no obvious alternative to drinking polluted water. Milk was equally dangerous before pasteurization, and in any case, there were not enough milking animals to supply the population with their main drink (except perhaps to some extent in England). Beer and wine used too much of the grain crop to be a sustainable staple drink to provide an average of two to three pints of liquor a day per person. Certainly, in Japan and China, coffee had not spread by this time.
By one of the great accidents of history, it was discovered that by infusing an easily grown leaf in boiling water, it was possible to make a very cheap drink which could safely and very pleasurably be drunk all the time. It was the safest of all drinks for two reasons.
Firstly, there is the obvious fact that the boiling of the water killed many bacteria. If the boiled water was drunk straight away, having been boiled for at least five minutes, and the cup was fairly sterile, it would be safe.
But more surprisingly, there was another protection. In the early Chinese books on tea, and those in Japan when it was introduced there in the 13th century, tea is described as a medicine, similar to ginseng. It is said to have a bitter taste which reveals something that is good for many diseases, among them what was called "drinking water sickness." It was believed to have some kind of antiseptic content.
When I read this in early books about medicine, health, and life in China and Japan, it gave me the clue I needed. I followed the chain from waterborne diseases through drink and discovered that of the more than 500 chemicals in tea, the most abundant is what is called tea tannin, which is another term for what is technically called phenolics in chemistry. Phenolics are one of the most powerful antiseptics known to man. They were the basis of the carbolic disinfectants which Joseph Lister used in the 19th century to revolutionize the cleanliness of hospitals.
When the microscope developed in the late 19th century and bacteria were discovered, it became possible to test the effects of tea. Experiments showed that typhoid, dysentery, and cholera bacilli were all destroyed when put into a solution of cold tea. It was not just the boiling of the water that killed them, but something active in the tea itself. So when people drank tea, they did not just drink sterilized water, but a substance that actively cleaned out the mouth and the stomach.
Early experiments in England, as early as the early 18th century, had shown how frogs' legs immersed in cold tea remained moderately flexible and healthy, while those put in cold water quickly developed gangrene and putrefied. What the Chinese had discovered was an enormously powerful medicine, which they were also the first to note was effective in diminishing the likelihood of many other diseases of the brain, heart, and body.
So, in this second way, tea made possible the flourishing of Tang and Song China. Likewise, a few centuries later, it enabled the flourishing of late medieval Japan. And even later, when it was introduced in bulk into mid-18th-century Britain, it made possible the British Industrial Revolution. Our world was changed by this humble drink through the rapid growth of three of the greatest empires in history.
But it also had negative effects. While tea could be said to have made the great expansion of China possible, in two other ways it may also have brought terrible consequences.
The first is a hypothesis which I did not include in the book The Empire of Tea, since the evidence is as yet thin; it is just a guess. Perhaps I can float this idea before you so that someone, somewhere, can test the hypothesis better.
Tibet early on became one of the great tea-drinking nations of the world, relying largely on exports from China. There is no way in which the Tibetans in the past, or even today, could have sustained their high level of civilization without tea. Likewise, tea was a stimulant and energy-giver on the massive trade routes of the Silk Roads.
What interests me, however, is the possible effect tea may have had on other great pastoral nomadic groups on China's borders, especially the Mongols and the Manchus. If tea early on became a significant export to the Mongols and later the Manchus, this may have had tremendous consequences.
Tea, among other things, is a significant source of Vitamin C. In its green form, a cup of tea has more Vitamin C than a cup of orange juice. In its black or brown form, tea contains an enzyme which greatly helps to increase the Vitamin C value of green vegetables. Hence, it was early noticed to be highly effective against scurvy in the vegetable-scarce areas of the steppes on the borders of China. This was probably very important. Likewise, the energy which tea gives, especially in cold climates through the caffeine, plus the protection it offers against various diseasesâespecially waterborne onesâare all significant.
Can this growth in tea consumption be one of the factors behind the previously largely unexplained growth in the power of the Mongols in the 12th century? Certainly, as I gather from an exhibition we saw last year in Beijing, tea was widely consumed in some of the newly excavated border states. Certainly, Chinese advisers discussed at an early period the possibility of punishing the Mongols by cutting off the supply of brick tea, which was sent to them in exchange mainly for horses.
If this guess turns out to be true, then the invasions of China by Genghis and Kublai Khan, and the subsequent establishment of the Yuan Dynasty, may have been connected to tea. Later, the Manchu invasions and the establishment of the Qing Dynasty may be equally unimaginable without the leaves of this little bush. All this is open to further investigation.
What is less in doubt is the third huge blow that tea dealt to China. This came in two parts.
The first was in the early 19th century. The British had become addicted to tea from the middle of the 18th century. The wealth of the great East India Company was largely based on importing tea. Huge fortunes were made, and it is arguable that the British takeover of India and its victory over the French was dependent on tea fortunes.
There was a large problem for the British, however: how was this addiction to be paid for? All attempts to transplant tea to an area which the British controlled failed until the 1840s. So, for the crucial period of 1780 to 1840, as Britain went through the first Industrial Revolution in history and set up the largest empire that the world has ever known, the British were totally dependent on Chinese tea.
At first, tea had been paid for with silver. But as the quantities of imported tea rapidly increased, the amount of silver needed increased as well. The fact that the Mexican silver mines were cut off from the British by the American secession in 1776, the devaluation of silver, and the Chinese feeling that they already had enough silver, made this currency no longer effective by the late 18th century.
What else could the Chinese be induced to exchange for tea? It seemed appropriate to try another drugâa harder drug, opiumâin exchange for a soft addiction to tea. So began the opium story, with which I expect many people are familiar. This was a three-way trade: opium taken from India to China; Chinese tea sent to Britain; and silver flowing back in exchange for the opium, which was then sent to India to pay for more opium.
And then came the tragic sequel: the Chinese attempts to shut down the trade, the First Opium War of 1839â1842, and the huge reparations and treaty ports forced on China. Then followed the Second Opium War and further slaughter and indignities in the 1850s. The destruction of the unchallenged superiority of China was the start of the erosion of the Qing Empire. Tea and opium had conspired together to show its vulnerability.
Another less well-known, disastrous effect occurred later in the century. The British were intent on obtaining the profits of tea for themselves by growing it in their own territories. So, they developed massive tea plantations in Assam, and then Ceylon (now Sri Lanka). By the 1880s, they had undercut the Chinese markets through the use of machinery and cheap transport.
In 1897 in Amoy, it was reported that 25 years earlier, some 4 million kilograms of tea were exported from this area alone. Twenty-five years later, in 1897, only 720 kilograms were exported. Four years later, there was no tea being exported from Hankou (modern-day Wuhan). The great Chinese tea trade had totally collapsed in a period of 25 yearsâwithin a single generation. This sudden change was another source of that Chinese weakness which served as the background to the tragedies of the later 19th century: the Taiping Rebellion, the Boxer Rebellion, and the warlord period.
I have spoken of two of tea's great attractions: strength and health. But it has a third feature which has had nearly as great an effect as these. This is related to the fact that tea is a very ceremonial drink. Most drinks are consumed very simplyâpoured into a cup or glass and sent down the throat. With tea, there is an art in the infusing of the leaves which the host or hostess can perform, and there is a period in the brewing and pouring which is long enough for an elaboration of ceremony.
So, around the consumption of tea has grown some of the most elaborate of social ceremonials which humans perform. These are the famous Chinese and Japanese tea ceremonies, and the English afternoon tea party. The effects of this elaborate preparation and giving of hospitality have been very widespread.
Tea consumption and Buddhism were closely linked in China and Japan, just as tea and non-conformist Christian sects like Methodism in Britain were centered around tea. Furthermore, the particular artifacts associated with tea became very important. The massively important developments in ceramics in China and Japanâpottery and porcelainâas well as the later developments in England with Josiah Wedgwood and others in the 18th century, were inspired by the desire to make beautiful tea ware.
Tea also influenced architecture through the simplicity of the tea house, and its influence spread out into Japanese and Chinese painting and aesthetics more generally, as well as in Korea.
It would not be difficult to find other social effects. The change in British meal times and their natureâin which the British gave up their heavy meat breakfasts for a lighter tea and bread breakfast, and pushed back their evening meal to a later hour because they could have an afternoon tea to sustain themâwas the direct result of tea.
A change in gender relationships was also encouraged by the fact that ladies could now preside over an important mealâteaâand go out or invite friends in for a non-alcoholic social entertainment. All this is a very notable feature of 18th-century Britain. It has even been suggested that the generally quiet, law-abiding, and peaceful nature of Chinese and Japanese civilization, and of the British during the disruptions of the mid-18th century, is somehow related to this soothing and calming drink. Certainly, the teetotaler movement thought so.
In conclusion, it would be difficult to imagine Chinese, Japanese, or British civilization without tea. Later, the same came to be true of India, which became a great tea-drinking nation from the 1920s. Drunk by these nations and empires, and by the British imperial territoriesâthe Australians, for instance, became some of the greatest tea drinkers in the world outside Tibet and East Asiaâit is not difficult to see how tea has become, in terms of volume, the most consumed substance on Earth apart from air and water.
That two-thirds of the people on this planet take almost all of their liquid intake flavored by a leaf containing over 500 chemicalsâmost of which we do not yet fully understandâhas changed history.
One way to think of this is that humans acted as agents in domesticating and spreading the miraculous Camellia sinensis to most parts of the globe. But we can invert this and see the tea bush as using a blind, selective evolutionary strategy which has stood it in such good stead, thereby itself creating a vast "Empire of Tea."
The tea bush attracts mammals to consume it by containing the instantly rewarding chemical caffeine. Humans, like monkeys before them, have fallen for this attraction. Furthermore, the tea plant evolved in the most competitive ecological zone on Earth, where the micro-variations in climate amidst the wet, warm slopes of the Eastern Himalayas encouraged intense competitionânot only with other plants, but also with the viruses, bacteria, and rusts that proliferated there. To survive this competition, tea had to maintain and develop its own chemical protections.
So, in its leaves, tea contains many natural medicines to protect itself against viruses and bacteria. These defenses have made it one of the few plants on Earth, for example, which is not attacked by the deadly mosaic viruses or by many species of bacteria. It includes chemicals, including flavonoids and enzymes, which are now revealed to be effective in humans against strokes, heart attacks, many cancers, eye disease, tooth decay, stones, arthritis, scurvy, and perhaps even malaria. It may even be that the early evolution of the health-giving properties of the tea leaf conferred a selective advantage on the animalsâincluding human animalsâwho drank it. This made tea drinkers more successful, and they carried the plant with them.
Certainly, at a macro-level, the tea-drinking nations were healthy, and like the Chinese, Japanese, and British, they were historically very successful. To take one example, it seems likely that the British without tea might have lost the First World War, for it was tea that sustained them in the trenches. The real problems came when two tea-drinking nations confronted each otherâthe Mongols and the Chinese, or the British and the Japanese. Of necessity, one would be defeated, but only after a bitter struggle.
Once one starts to think about it in a systematic way, the influence of tea on world history seems very evident. Yet, for the most part, its importance and nature have remained almost totally ignored, not only by historians but by most of those who drink it. Confucius is alleged to have said that it would hardly be a bird that discovered air, or a fish that discovered water. To this, we may add: or a tea-drinking nation that discovered the importance of tea.
As the son of a tea planter, I myself had never noticed tea, as it were, until very recently. Quite accidentally, I started to think about it in relation to other historical problems. And as my wife and I helped to organize the building of a Japanese-style tea houseâwhere I am giving this renewed talkâI began to realize that tea was one of the great accidents in history.
I think, personally, it is more important than penicillin, quinine, and perhaps even than rice or potatoes. I realize that we are all members or subjects of the Empire of Tea. We are all caught up in our craving for that "green gold," as it was called, which lightens and cheers our lives. It is the largest empire on Earth, yet almost invisible.
Thank you.